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Creativity is challenged when the resources are limited. Indian designers have responded to the challenging times in different ways; while some catered to the changing winds of work at home idea, others pandered to create enthusiasm amidst the gloom. Digital fashion weeks are also presenting another opportunity of creativity to designers; how well does one use is the matter to explore. It has democratised the idea of “Front Row” over which socialites and media reeled in earlier, flaunting their early access to the mere mortals aka actual buyers.
Embracing this changed equations, the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) presented its first ever digital edition of Lotus Make-up India Fashion Week, Spring|Summer 2021 recently with DLF Emporio/ The Chanakya as the luxury partner along with over 40 designers from across the country marking their virtual presence.
“As the world slowly understands how to live with the pandemic, fashion too is assuming a new avatar by spreading its wings to encourage a new kind of customer, who is tech-savvy and unafraid to make bold choices with the click of a button. Every show for us is a Grand Finale and everyone is entitled to a front row seat. Despite the unusual circumstances the fashion industry has come together to showcase their most ingenious ideas at the LMIFW SS’21,” said FDCI Chairman, Sunil Sethi in an interview on FDCI’s first digital fashion week.
Ciceroni spots five trends that will be head-turners for Spring|Summer 2021
FLOWY HOLIDAY AND STREETSTYLE DRESSING
Trends: Nature inspired prints and dainty sheer
The season of Spring|Summer encapsulates the essence of nature; an idea and object that has been the muse of fashion and textile designers. Titled ‘Rebirth,’ Vaishali’s collection was inspired from corals creating a feeling of resurgence. The collection, meant for the fierce and the bold, featured an unusual line-up of crop tops, jackets, statement blouses, trousers and dresses in her signature cord work and the regal chanderi fabric.
Fusing the Tibetan art and Indian textiles, Payal Jain explored the traditional jacquard techniques like ‘Katrauan’ and ‘Kadua’ in her collection titled the “Holy Script.” Giving out the holiday vibes, her collection showcased sheer and floral printed flowy maxi dresses in a colour palette inspired from the traditional Buddhist Thangka paintings.
Focusing on introspection and spiritual growth, Archana Rao played with silhouettes, colours and embroideries in her collection – The Wildflower. Featuring flirty and fun tulle ruffle skirts, edgy Khaki trench coats and boiler suits, dainty sarees and elegant tea-length dresses with a corset, the entire collection was handmade from recycled and upcycled fabrics.
Trends: Metallic Hues, Retro Polka Dots and Contemporary Co-ords
A makeover is what your workwear needs! Embrace the polka dots, lively hues of spring, modern designs and comfort above all.
Titled “Mirror- Me”, Dhi’s collection stemmed in the emotions and reflection of an individual. Comprising of chic and sophisticated separates, conducive to working from home, the collection spoke of the recent above the keyboard dressing.
Free-spirited and utterly feminine, Gauri and Nainika’s collection included a range of wartime inspired demure pencil dresses, wrap dresses with polka dots and shirt dresses. Vintage colour palette of scarlet red, bottle green and classic black took centre-stage to build the visual narrative.
Infused with pop and metallic hues, Tisharth by Shivani’s collection “Connected” consisted of dresses and co-ord sets in unconventional designs, made specially for the modern woman.
OPULENT INDIAN BRIDAL WEAR
Trends: Indian embroideries, Mughal inspired silhouettes
Given that India is a land of festivities, weddings and celebrations, you would want to keep a close watch on the trends in the traditional Indian wear, because hello, summer weddings !
Titled ‘Umme Rabab’, the couture collection by Ashima Leena combined delicate hand embroidery on meticulously curated textiles with classic AL Maharani silhouettes. Her collection featuring longline jackets, peplums, circular lehengas, applique work and tassel detailed sarees, brocade dupattas with embroidered beads highlighted the AL legacy of fine craftsmanship.
Drawing inspiration from the meenakari work, Tarun Tahiliani’s collection featured wedding-ready lehengas and saris that were hand-painted and embroidery rich. Paired with head-turning blouses, this line-up is just right for modern brides.
Trends: Indian crafts and woven textiles
Make your wardrobe a trunk filled with stories of India’s rich cultural heritage and textiles.
“She”, Studio Virtues’s latest collection spells out admiration for the ancient handloom technique of Mashru from Patan. Entailing robes, jackets, anarkalis, skirts, jumpsuits and comfort trousers, the ensembles are detailed with the Kutchi mirror work and include prints that are inspired from Ravi Verma’s treasured paintings.
Paying tribute to the holy land of Banaras, Abhishek Gupta’s collection features sherwanis and kurtas lined with magnificent brocades detailed with traditional handloom techniques, fine appliqué and thread embroidery.
Rajesh Pratap Singh’s collection titled ‘Fall. ing. 2020’, emphasised on pastel hues and an extensive use of hand block printing techniques. The line-up featured a mix of functional dresses, silk jackets, dhoti pants, along with colour-blocked festive ensembles and block printed kurtas.
Trends: Experimental cuts, Vintage fashion, Functional Outerwear
In the new millennia, Indian designers are experimenting to create an all new space for modern menswear in India and the change is more than welcome.
The menswear line by Siddartha Tytler caters to the 21st century metrosexual who is not afraid to wear his style sensibility on his sleeve. Suave and stylish, the range boasts of structured cuts, vibrant colours, and an effortless fusion of the classic with the quirky.
Ravi Bajaj’s collection was an ode to the style and glamour of Indian Cinema of the 60s/70s. The ensembles were given a more modern twist with ultra-luxe fabrics and contemporary silhouettes.
Pavan Sachadeva’s collection “Blitzen” was inspired by the contemporary industrial design and tech revolution. Coated and proofed outerwear, super light jackets layered with zipper t-shirts and jogger pants in a palette of inky blues and blacks, technical tints of grey and shiny metallics, the collection has a very futuristic approach designed for the new age men.
While most are still figuring on what to wear for this winter festive season, you can be fashion forward and adopt these SS-21 trends before anyone else.
Fashion and Lifestyle Writer at Ciceroni
She is a dreamer on the cusp of an ancient civilization, waiting to break free and soar into new frontiers of expression and understanding. She loves writing fashion and travel stories.